The sun glowed through a light haze and the lip of the Pacific Ocean said, "What are you waiting for?" I was 42 yards from what I had spent the last eight months dreaming of -- a finish line. Some would say the 3.6 million dollars Pat turned down was a finish line. My line seemed microscopic compared to the one he stopped just short of. I looked a little closer at the unending mirror of steel blue water and saw only an unshaven reflection of myself. I turned around and left, looking for the closest feed lot, not having walked across the country, for Pat Tillman.
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Haydee Rodriguez, a Spanish literature teacher from Central Union High School, drove 104 miles round trip to bring me a quesadilla, steak burrito and a vanilla chai latte. She and her family housed me the last four nights. Haydee speaks three languages fluently and has a range of knowledge that rivals Google. She could live anywhere and do anything. I asked her why she came back to her home town of El Centro, CA to teach high school (where she won teacher of the year last year). She said, "I searched for power most of my life in order to mask my inadequacies; it's in a classroom, the place where I have the honor and privilege of accessing young minds that I have found real power...the kind that makes my soul grow bright and beautiful. Nobody can take this power away from me.
I teach and learn, I love and am loved. My life is complete. I teach in El Centro because I am from here and I chose to return due to an absence of Latina role models, female role models period. I want to be a living message of what is possible, I hope to embody wonder, awe and service and to show my students that someone from Imperial Valley can study at Brown, Stanford and Universidad de Salamanca in Spain, travel the world and enjoy a quesadilla at Camacho's as much as dinner at El Bulli in Barcelona. It's not where you are, its what you make of it."
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77 year old Leonard Knight has been building a four storey adobe and hay bale monument to his mantra, "God is Love" for over 30 years. Using the color scheme of a gum ball machine and the blue prints for a mound of mashed potatoes Leonard inspires dozens of visitors a day. Passages from the King James Bible, along with his favorite untoiling or spinning symbol, a flower, ornament the mountain. The flowers are made with globs of adobe and a pressing fist. With a New England accent, Leonard said, "I can make 300 flowers a day." He wakes up at 4 am each morning and lugs gallons of paint and buckets of adobe up ladders and through a maze of caves. Battling the blanching desert sun he tirelessly repaints. Leonard sleeps in his mountain matching box truck when its cold; and on a tattered, clothes strewn couch beside the truck when its warm. He wears a light blue mechanics jump suit and a Quaker brimmed straw hat; both are flecked in the colors of the mountain. I introduced myself and asked about his project. He said, "God speaks to me through my rib. He told me where to find the material to make this (Salvation Mountain). I have been here for 30 years and its starting to receive a lot of attention. It's in the Internet." It is. Sean Penn found Salvation Mountain there and used it for a scene in "Into the Wild." Leonard keeps it simple. Built like an offensive lineman and wearing a T-shirt as a turban, his protege Chey, a disgruntled former music producer from Joshua Tree, CA said, " People come out here with their huge Bibles wanting to explain the more intricate details of Gods will to Leonard. Leonard responds to them with, 'You are all very smart and important people.'" Painted red in a rolled dough font, I look up and see the giant words, "God Is Love" on the cap of the mountain. Leonard has struggled to keep his land. According to Chey, the town of Slab City has cited him for environmental violations associated with the lead paint he used a few decades back; and tried to have the hill demolished. Pro love lawyers intervened and were able to legally designate the mountain a national folk art landmark. Leonards dream will never be touched by town or state. Salvationmountain.us
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The sun was buried deep in the horizon and a faint orange glow was all that remained of the day. I was slicing through fragrent alfalfa fields on abandonded railroad tracks when Phillipe and Rachel pulled alongside of me in a white pick up. I lifted my head from the email I was reading on my BlackBerry to hear Phillipe say, "We saw you in the paper and wanted to bring you water." I left the tracks and walked down a small hill to meet them. We talked briefly about the walk and their professions. Phillip is an electrician and Rachel a social worker. I thanked them, said good bye and ran up to the point where I left the tracks. Calmly coiled like 3 ft. of uncooked Italian sausage in the center of the tracks was a rattle snake. Reading the email in the near darkness I would have stepped on and been bitten by the snake if it were not for Rachel and Phillipe.I found relief from the 107 degree temperatures the last two days with numerous speaking engagements. Yesterday I met five groups of high school students at Central Union High and attended a Red Cross fundraiser. I was late to the Red Cross event. A weak dryer held me and my only pair of pants hostage. I was eventually released and Haydee Rodriguez a teacher at Central Union drove me to El Centro's natural history museum. Stuffed bobcats, elk and big horn sheep watched as 300 RC volunteers and donors listened as Sylvia the MC concluded her speech with, "He must still be walking." I crept behind her, tapped her shoulder and said, "Who's walking in this heat?" The crowd laughed, I apologized for being late, spoke briefly about my walk and experience as a Red Cross volunteer in Chicago. The mayor then presented me with the key to El Centro. Thank you to Joe, Jason and Haydee for including me in the event. Today I spoke at a juvenile detention center. A group of 30 boys and 10 girls ages 11 - 17, uniformly dressed in navy blue sweat suits and black velcro shoes entered a sterile cafeteria under the stern instructions of blank faced guards to keep their arms crossed. They were greeted by me and the smell of food preservatives. The kids sat on teeter-totter chairs projecting from steel picnic tables, bolted to a pale linoleum floor. Socially challenged teenagers are my favorite audience. I spoke and concluded with, "nobody remembers that Pat spent time in a juvenile detention facility. As a matter of fact he once said, 'I learned more from that one negative experience than all of the positive experiences in my life combined.' The kids were extremely well behaved and asked thoughtful questions like, "How has this walked changed you?" "Have you had any trouble with bad people?" "Can we leave with you?" and, "Where do you go to the bathroom?" Haydee Rodriguez has been my tour guide in El Centro the last few days. Haydee was a high school drop out who went on to graduate from Stanford with a masters in History and Spanish. She is the most popular teacher at Central Union. She has been to every country in Europe except Switzerland and is extremely smart and well read. I had a lot of fun talking with Haydee the last few days.
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I cleaned up camp, clipped the belt buckle on my pack, and started towards the road this morning. I soon noticed four eyes crouched behind a bush. I moved closer, and like jack rabbits two dark complexioned teenage boys in jeans and black t-shirts ran north over a nearby sand dune. For a native from Chicago, the moment was as exciting as a Fall black bear sighting in the Appalachians. I pictured the boys sitting anxiously behind the next bush feeling certain our encounter meant their demise. I guess I understand the economic problem of illegal immigration. However, then and there I wanted autographs and a picture. It seemed the two had run across a moderately secure international border, under a desert full moon, without backpacks. I was impressed. I nearly doubled back to share water and exchange notes. I saw a USBP agent less than a mile away. I waived and said only, "Good morning." Walkers don't expose other walkers' hiding spots.
I spoke at the El Centro Rotary club, thanks to Haydee, Bobby and Jeff. Jennifer, a Rotarian, stood up after I was finished and said, "I am donating $20 to the Pat Tillman Foundation. Who else would like to donate?". Jennifer walked around the room and gathered $500. Thank you Jennifer and the El Centro Rotary club!
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         I walked on a pressed sand road a few yards south of interstate 8 and 100 yards from the 15 foot tall fence that divides Mexico and the U.S. today. Between the sand road and I-8 lie 7'x15' industrial strength white bike racks, 2'x2' lego shaped concrete blocks and ocean liner chains. The second wall tries to keep drug runners and coyotes who drive through the first wall from entering I-8. I noticed some small gaps between the bike racks and concrete blocks. After the walk I am going to drive down old office furniture, mattresses, refrigerators and the like to fill in the holes. I recommend every American do the same thing. Rick Telander from the Chicago Sun Times flew out to walk and camp with me yesterday. It was an honor and a welcome distraction from the 102 degree temps. to visit with Rick. He was a cornerback for Northwestern and has written eight books (ricktelander.com).   We met at the center of the world and walked and talked all day; stopping at the trailer outposts for the All American Canal project and Canadian Gas company. We met dozens of employees and savored the air conditioning and cold water at each stop. The employees were probably of different backgrounds, perhaps some even worked in cheap hotels and budget accommodation. We continued on and by mid afternoon had enough of the heat and stopped at Buttercup, the country's largest recreational sand dune park. We met Jerry Vines, the 78 year old Korean War Veteran and park host. Jerry helps fellow RV'ers and dune buggy enthusiasts when they run into trouble. As an unofficial under cover Border Patrol Agent he watches over the dunes at night. . Thanks to Jerry's vigilance many unsuspecting drug runners and illegal immigrants have been round. Jody, Sally and Tia brought dinner and a 6 pack of Guinness for Rick and I. We ate, laughed and then said good by to the extremely thoughtful ladies. Under a full moon Rick and I marched over to the base of the dunes, which were the back drop for the opening scene of Return of the Jedi, to camp and talk over a fire. If the walls of the old Chicago Stadium, the Coliseum in L.A., the Boston Garden, Yankee Stadium and every other major sporting facility in this country could talk they would be less interesting than Rick. From Steve Kerrs first encounter with John Stockton, to the motivations behind Rocky Blyers football career, Rick had first hand knowledge of it all. We talked politics, religion, documentaries and books well into the night. It was unforgettable 24 hours. Thank you to Jody, Mike and Sally who drove a steak dinner, candles, a small picnic table and chairs out to me tonight. Together we ate and looked like a scene from "Out of Africa" in the sand a few yards off the shoulder near I-8. Thank you Rick, Jody, Sally and Mike.
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I walked to Official Center of the World; which is a dot on a bronze plaque within a pyramid in Felicity, CA. The center of the world, or universe, can be anywhere. However in this case it was set by law, based upon a childrens book. "COE the Good Dragon at the Center of the World." The pyramid was suggested by the author's wife as he wrote the book. "It's in the desert, why not a pyramid?" He took his wife seriously. The author built the pyramid, named the town for his wife, and ran for Mayor (Felicity means happiness). Landmarks are scattered throughout the small town (pop. 2 people), The gnomon of the 15 ft. Sundial at Felicity is a three-dimensional bronze of Michelangelo's Arm of God painted on the Sistine Chapel ceiling. The arm points to the  Church on the Hill at Felicity built in 2006.  The Hill of Prayer,  site of the Church, was built in January 2002 by  moving 150,000 tons of earth. The church is the highest point in the town. There is a sculpture at the entrance which is the 25 ft. high section number 12 of the original stairway of the Eiffel Tower. In 1983, the Government of France removed approximately 500 ft. of the original stairway. It serves no practical purpose. There is also a history of humanity etched in long slabs of granite. Felicity is a town of uninhibited imagination that says we are a rock circling a star in the middle of an infinite universe. Live where you want; build what you want; believe what you want; but do it all with respect for your fellow man and surroundings.
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Jody, Tia, Sally and I walked the last miles out of Arizona and into California together. April 21st they lost their father, husband and grandfather to cancer. Tom Doyle was a strong Irish Catholic from Chicago who went to high school with Dick Butkis at C.V.S.. His favorite things were Notre Dame, Chicago Bears football, John Wayne and military history. His prayer card was a book mark because he read so much. He spent over 30 years working for the railroad as a conductor. Immediately before we crossed the Colorodo river we walked underneath the tracks Tom rode on and heard the train whistles toot. Tom was with us this evening as well. Sally, Jody, Charlie, Tia, Pat, Mike, Bill and Marlon have been a tremendous support the last few days in Yuma. Crossing the California line with the Huebner/Doyle family could not have been a better reminder why I am out here. The last seven months of walking have not been about an individual physical accomplishment. They have been about the support I have received and the life long friendships I have made along the way. They have been about Sally, Jody, Pat, Charlie, Marlon, Tia, Mike and the 1,000's of others who have helped keep Pat's epic example in people's minds through kindness and generosity.
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I spoke at the juvenile detention summit at Phoenix college, here in Yuma.  It is a once a year but mandatory conference for kids ages 14-17 who are on intensive probation for various criminal deeds.   Carolyn Pendergast's friend Charlie Huebner arranged for me to speak.  Charlie is one of eight U.S. Olympic committee chiefs.  He is in charge of the entire paralympic division.  He could not hold a more distinguished and important place in the Olympic community.  In spite of his position Charlie is incredibly humble and thoughtful.  He outfitted me with fresh U.S. paralympic apparel  and paid for three nights at the Homewood Suites while I make my way through Yuma.  Thank you Charlie! After my talk Marlon Shirley took the stage.  Marlon and Charlie work closely together.  Marlon was abandoned by his mother at age three.  He managed to survive by living on the streets of Las Vegas.  He eventually found his way into foster care but at the age of five lost his left foot in a lawn mower accident.  Several years later a high school football injury resulted in the further amputation of the lower section of the same leg.  Marlon overcame all of this and more to go on to win two gold medals in the paralympic games.  He owns the world record in the 100 Meter dash and has earned the designation as the only amputee to break the 11-second barrier in the 100.  Additionally he won the US paralympic spirit award, the silver medal in the high jump in Sydney, two ESPY awards and numerous other awards and sponsorships.  He was on all McDonald's packaging last year. The 97 teenagers hung on his every word.  He was someone they could all relate to.  He vowed never to let his past hardships be an excuse to fail.  It was a huge honor to listen to Marlon address these kids.  The morning was filled with additional speakers who went through some of the most horrific situations imaginable as young children but managed to fight their way back from near death and abandonment to help others.  We heard from girls who overdosed on heroin multiple times by the age of 9 and were victims of rape and severe sexual abuse.   The stories were jaw dropping.   The fact that these speakers had the courage to return from the absolute darkness to help other kids who may have had similar experiences was incredibly moving and inspirational.  I don't think I have ever been in a room with more heroic and courageous people. I walked ten miles with Charlie's brother Pat and  I spent  the evening at the Yuma Relay for Life with Pat, his mother Sally, his sister Jody and Jody's daughter Tia. I will write about them all tomorrow--an amazing family!     

The sun lost its temper as I walked through 23 miles of desert outside Yuma, AZ. Like it was an irrational step father I apologized in vain and waited for a motherly and protective cloud to return home from work. I am well wrapped in 2 garbage bags next to a feed lot. The bags are a light and effective alternative to the sleeping bag I sent home a few days ago. Save the noxious smell of plastic I can't tell much of a difference between the two set ups. The cows at the steak factory next door appear to be confined to shoots resembling the ones used in bull riding competitions. They all spend 90 days marbling in the pens. This process is otherwise known as reverse lipo suction. I could use 90 days in a feed lot. Rather than mutant corn and sorghum I would order Gardetto's.
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